Hey guys, it's Rick with Achilles Heel Tactical, and today, we're diving into how I set up my carbines.
Whether you're setting up a rifle for training, personal defense, or just to have a solid build, getting your configuration right is key.
I'll break down my process, why I choose certain components, and some key takeaways to help you refine your own rifle setup.
Key Takeaway: The Build List
For those who just want the details, here’s the full build:
Rifle – Modern Materiel ACE
Optic – Holosun HE515GM-GR
Light – Modlite OKW 18650 with Modlite Buttons, DS00 Tail switch, and Arisaka Defense mount
IR/VIS Laser – PEQ15 FP
Sling – Edgar Sherman Design Sling
Hand Stop – PMM Meat Hook
Backup Iron Sights – Griffin Armament M2
Sentry Strap – NeoMag Sentry Strap
Rail Covers – Rail Scales mini dot G10
Suppressor – Surefire RC2
Starting with Purpose
Before you even start bolting on accessories, you need to define your rifle's purpose. This particular build is designed to serve as a demo rifle for my classes and as a backup rifle for students. That means it needs to be versatile, durable, and easy to run in various conditions.
Optic Placement and Mounting
I’m running a Holosun HE515GM-GR on this setup. When placing an optic, it’s important to consider:
Field of view – Placing the optic farther back captures more of the window, while mounting it farther forward minimizes it. I aim for a middle ground.
Mounts – There are a ton of mount heights to choose from, but I’m sticking with the factory mount for this setup.
Locking it down – Always apply forward pressure when securing the mount. Think about it like a water bottle in your car – if you slam on the brakes, it flies forward. Same with recoil—your optic needs to be rock solid and not shift under pressure.
Witness marks – Always mark your screws after torquing them down so you can quickly check if anything has moved over time.
Backup Iron Sights and Laser Alignment
Even with a reliable optic, redundancy is important. I’ve mounted Griffin Armament M2 backup iron sights, which co-witness at a lower one-third height. These serve as an emergency sighting system if my red dot fails.
I'm also running a PEQ15 FP, which needs to be carefully positioned so it doesn’t obstruct my iron sights or optics. Lasers can lose zero if they’re not mounted properly, so just like the red dot, I apply forward pressure to keep it locked in place.
Non-Dominant Hand Grip and Control
Establishing a proper grip is critical. I use the PMM Meat Hook as my angled foregrip. The key here is natural positioning—you don’t want to search for your grip every time you present your rifle. I found my ideal placement by closing my eyes, reaching out naturally, and marking the spot where my pinky landed.
Once I locked it down, I did some test presentations to ensure it felt right. Like the optic and laser, I added witness marks to ensure nothing shifts over time.
Weapon Light and Activation Setup
This build includes a Modlite OKW 18650 light with Modlite buttons, a DS00 Tail switch, and an Arisaka Defense mount. The goal is to get the most usable light downrange while keeping activation simple and ergonomic. Here’s how I did it:
Mounted the light as far forward as possible without obstruction
Ran a 12 o’clock pressure switch to keep activation intuitive
Used a short cable to keep things clean and secure
Positioned everything so my non-dominant hand could control the light without interference
Why does light placement matter? If you mount it too far back, it can cast a shadow from the barrel or suppressor, reducing effectiveness. Getting the bezel just past the rail ensures maximum light projection.
Redundant Controls for Light and Laser
I set up dual activation methods for my PEQ15 laser and Modlite:
Laser: Activation is manual on the unit, but I also ran a Modlite button for easier use.
Light: My main activation is the 12 o’clock switch, but I also have a secondary activation method on the dominant side for backup.
This keeps everything intuitive and consistent—I don’t want to mix up my light and laser controls in a stressful moment.
Rail Covers for Heat Protection
Extended shooting sessions generate heat fast, especially on lightweight rifles like the Modern Materiel ACE. I added Rail Scales at 3, 6, and 9 o’clock to provide insulation and improve grip.
Sling Setup for Stability and Retention
A good sling setup makes a huge difference in control and retention. I’m using the Edgar Sherman Design Sling mounted via Arisaka QD mounts. Here’s why the placement matters:
Forward mount: Positioned just ahead of my non-dominant hand grip so I can establish leverage for recoil control.
Rear mount: Attached to the lower receiver slot for a stable, consistent hold.
Quick-adjust feature: Allows me to tighten or loosen the sling on the fly.
To keep the sling stowed and out of the way during drills or transport, I added a NeoMag Sentry Strap, which retains the sling neatly until needed.
Final Touch: Suppressor Setup
I’m running a Surefire RC2 suppressor to round out the build. A suppressor affects:
Gas blowback – Consider an adjustable gas system if needed
Light placement – Ensure minimal shadowing from the can
Overall balance – Weight distribution changes, so check how it impacts your rifle’s handling
Final Thoughts
This is how I build my carbines to serve multiple mission profiles. It’s all about redundancy, reliability, and intuitive placement. Whether you’re setting up a training rifle, a duty rifle, or a personal defense setup, start with purpose, prioritize usability, and lock everything down properly.
This rifle is ready to hit the range and serve as both a demo and a backup for students. Hopefully, this breakdown gives you some insight into setting up your own rifle. If you have any questions or want to dive deeper, drop a comment below!
Now that your rifle is fully dialed in, it’s time to zero—but at what distance? The right zero can make or break your accuracy. Stay tuned for our next blog post, dropping later this month, where we break it all down!
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